The Pietist Schoolman's European Vacation
What I'll be doing the next two weeks instead of writing
I love writing almost as much as I love teaching. But I’m taking a break from both for the next couple weeks, as I lead a group tour of Scandinavia. When I come back, I’m sure I’ll be ready to teach my summer course on World War II and eager to resume Substacking.
But in the meantime, try some of the other newsletters that I recommend. Or follow along with our trip by checking out the links to some of the places we plan to go:
Wednesday, June 12 - Oslo
Where I go this first full day in Scandinavia will probably depend on what catches the eye of our group as a local guide takes us on an introductory walk around central Oslo. Perhaps: the Akershus Fortress and its museums on military history and anti-Nazi resistance; the art of the National Museum or the 200-some sculptures in Vigeland Park; the Nobel Peace Center; the brick structures of Oslo’s city hall or cathedral. Unless my Verdi-loving father wants to double back to see Oslo’s incredible opera house…
Thursday, June 13 - Oslo
After a morning cruise around the Oslofjord, I’m hoping to spend the afternoon visiting at least two of the sites on the Bygdøy peninsula: the open-air folk museum (complete with a transplanted stave church) and the Fram Museum on polar exploration. Unfortunately, the Viking ship preserved in between them is closed until 2027.
Friday, June 14 - driving from Oslo to Stockholm
Apart from having lunch somewhere on the Vänern, the one thing we’ll be doing on this drive is to check out some family history at the village of Edsleskog, home of my Peterson ancestors — some of whom left for America in the 1870s; others of whom are buried in the old cemetery of a church whose recently excavated ruins date back to the 13th century.
Saturday, June 15 - Stockholm
Our first full day in Scandinavia’s largest city will start with a tour of Stockholm’s famed city hall and the daily military parade at the Royal Palace. From there, I’ll buy everyone a ticket on a hop-on/hop-off boat to explore the Venice of the North via water. I’m most looking forward to seeing the Vasa Museum and Skansen, the world’s oldest open-air folk museum, both on the island of Djurgården. Others might want to get lost walking the medieval alleys of Gamla Stan or go shopping in Norrmalm.
Sunday, June 16 - Stockholm
After a walking tour of Swedish religious history that I previewed here a few weeks ago, we’ll worship at Immanuelskyrkan, then take a day trip to the city of Uppsala, traditional center of the Church of Sweden and home to the 18th century biologist Carl Linneaus (the kings play chess on funny green squares guy, or so I was taught taxonomy).
Monday, June 17 - Stockholm to Småland
As we drive to Denmark, we’ll pause for lunch in Norrköping (“Sweden’s Manchester” during the Industrial Revolution), visit the Kosta Boda glassworks in the middle of Glasriket (the “Kingdom of Crystal”), and pass the sites that inspired Vilhelm Moberg’s first novel about Swedish emigrants to Minnesota.
Tuesday, June 18 - Småland to Copenhagen
Our morning will let us investigate the history of Swedish immigration in the province hardest hit by it, then we’ll drive through Skåne (the home of Charles Lindbergh’s ancestors), stopping at the 12th century Romanesque cathedral in Lund before we cross the Öresund to Denmark.
Wednesday, June 19 - Copenhagen
Much like Oslo, what we see during our day in Denmark’s capital city will depend on what people get out of a morning tour. And it’s some of the same kinds of sites: the city hall, cathedral, opera house, and national museum. If it were entirely up to me, we’d spend an hour or two at the Danish War Museum, but I suspect royal palaces and Tivoli Gardens will appeal to more members of our group.